Balmain SS2012 ... back on track!

picturecredit: style.com

I couldn't be more excited when I saw the first pictures of the Balmain show in Paris showing up on the web. I've been making it pretty much clear to all my readers that I had some serious doubts about Decarnin's last designs (click here, here or even here) before he left back in February (although I've been rethinking my negative commenting about the collection here... it's not that awful from a current perspective). And there I obviously wasn't the only one. So after his sudden disappearance, half of the outer fashion world was left with a big question mark and after Olivier Rousteing was named to become the heir of Decarnin's Balmain-baby I was absolutely curious what the 25 year old will present for SS2012. He surely couldn't get off with that certain Balmain-look defining itself from sexy bodycon and glittery loose dresses and that hint of rock'n'roll-meets-luxury-chic together with cool casualness. But surprisingly he added some details changing the whole Balmain-impression we got the last seasons to a way more positive outcome than expected. Moving away from simple, questionable details and the whole trashy appearance Balmain slowly became under Decarnin, Rousteing brought it back to higher standards. No paper clips, needles, pins or other office equipment holding together trousers and jackets. No cheap futurism and no badly destroyed shirts & jumpers. "Thank God! Balmain's back!" my inner voice shouted.

Precious embellishments from golden to shiny black were lovely sewed on white and I just get that feeling of a powerful combination between gold and white (which keeps a challenge since the possibility to look cheap is really high) for next year's summer season. I'm still undecided about the denim meets gold version but I guess I'm able to work that out until next year. A definite pro for a casual yet sexy way to go out and dance the night away. An undecided con for a "...seriously?" in my head and the terrible trap of a runway-goes-everydaylife , therefore looking just not as it originally was supposed to be. I'm also not in for those high waisted pants. They look gorgeous on that skinny thing but will they do the same on me being just 169 cm tall? I doubt it... I always feel like I'm wearing some diapers when wearing such short highwaist-stuff and especially I'd do so when the shorts would be as white as they are in Rousteing's version. However, that shouldn't distract from the main intention of the collection: Showing the world that Balmain's on its way of recovery. Suffering from inspirexia (that horrible disease designers tend to get - they just simply lack of any inspiration and therefore fall into a fashion-drought), it seems as if we are literally reaching the golden years again.

Another flashy detail is that massive belt holding together blouses and bottom down skirts or high waisted shorts. Reminds me a little bit of Versace's earlier version and adds that lovely oldschool flair.

Overall I can say that Roustaing's homework has been done. Reaching higher spheres of fashion designing again yet putting things on low-key mode, I give him an A for his runway-debut.

Hervé Léger SS2012

picturecredit: style.com

As New York Fashionweek kicked off the past days and as I was in a private hurry which didn't let me browse through the world wide web for longer than 10 minutes a day (what a record of myself), I'm a little delayed with all that commenting on different shows. Therefore I thought about giving my favourites the only go and so here we are with my ever keeping love to Hervé Léger by Max Azria.  It's no secret that I'm completely in love his bodycon dresses, which are so well known that I doubt you wouldn't identify one once it passes your way wherever you are. 

Azria's simple but sexy mixture of creating those bandage dresses without letting them appear cheap by any means always kept me looking out for a more inexpensive version (which I'm still looking out for today - I guess there's just a little chance to copy those masterpieces in an acceptable way).  However, it will be hard to find a Hervé Léger-like piece of next year's spring/summer collection since they appear to be unexpected as expected.  

Surely, the bandage body consciousness was kept as we expected. But the details and elements changed. From simplicity we come to glamourous twists made out of shiny details and golden/silver colours. It seems as if Azria went into the more luxurious way while keeping it powerful and sexy. As another unexpected detail, some quilling-like ends for some of his dresses were added, which (to me) let them appear even more feminine. The symbiosis of slight S&M like details underlined with simple black and a leather-like appearance together with those playful quillings bring a new, vibrant and interesting attitude into the whole collection. Bear in mind that all those dresses are made of one specific material and still they all look different while presenting its own attitude. Consequently the darker colours to the point of black demonstrate the fierce, rock-alike chic while warmer shades like golden glitter represent a glamorous way to style yourself up. Cold silver and white combined together with golden embellishments stand for an innocent but reserved snow princess and tribal ikat-prints are more the edgy and casual version of a woman who knows how to dress herself but doesn't want to go into more styling.

One of the best parts of the collection? The way the girls were styled beside from putting on those master pieces. The minimal make up and a strict, pure hair-do...I just LOVE it. There is no better play between feminine sexy and pure strictness! 

The only questionable thing? The shoes. Those gladiator like things give the impression that all the models had a bad car accident that led to some serious leg injuries.  But beside this (and I guess we are all able to ignore those mistakes on their feet) there is nothing left to tell than Meenal Mistry's comment on style.com:

No one ever said that being tough precluded luxury.

So true. 

Patrick Mohr SS2012 (MBFWB) - "I WANT MOHR"

Quite strangely Patrick Mohr started his fashionshow on Thursday as the last designer of the day. With a monotone music always repeating the slogan "I want more" that Mohr changed to "I want Mohr", male as well as female models were literally sneaking down the runway. Strong statement-eyebrows and undone-styled hair were just two of the many interesting details Mohr added to his straight collection. Although asymmetry was mostly ruling the cuts of his pieces, everything seemed pretty much futuristic with a feature of layered chill-out looks and a well kept straightforwardness. Bizarre "shoe"-wear in form of latex like socks were adding an unexpected twist. So no wonder nearly half of the tent seemed to get excited as the last model walked down in something that looked like a heel but rather reminded me personally of the remnants of some sheet metal like stuff. It must have been a lovely joke for him but I'd rather keep it a little more realistic and leave this as the simple part of a designer's "creativity" (whatsoever).
I personally would not like to "have Mohr" (more) of those pieces but oh well .. I think that's how Berlin would like to see every Blogger attending the fashionweek. Mainly not dressing up but coming undone and totally, alternatively underdressed.
Go to hell with this attitude and have a nice Wednesday.

Mongrels in Common SS2012 (MBFWB)

While I disappeared for the past two days somewhere between work, feeling sick, attending a prom back home and flying over to Berlin again it's been all a little stressful with updating my blog. Nevertheless, I finally found the time to go over all of those loads of pictures and this made me re-think about all of my impressions. Especially, when it comes to the label Mongrels in Common, which I never heard outside of Germany. It was an honour to attend the show, no question about that, but how does this collection differ from the one I saw before? I know that there's just a very fine line between gaining my interest and getting me bored but all of this asymmetric cuts and jade-green and tangerine make me rather feel a breeze of repetition than letting me see what spring/summer should be about in Christine Pluess and Livia Ximénez-Carillo's version.

The only thing, which seems timeless yet so lovely, is that simple bun all the models were having as a clean hair-do.

Some other pictures of that day are additionally included in this post.

C'est Tout SS2012 (MBFWB)

C'est Tout Spring/Summer 2012. I've been already writing about this collection and my impression. I guess there's just nothing left to say. Nice cuts, sweet colours and unfortunately just one model that was really pretty. 

Pictures of the two other shows I got to see will be uploaded soon.